冰湖腾鱼——查干湖最后的渔猎部落（汉英）

本画册获《美国国家地理》授权，中国冰雪文化遗产经典读本 

《冰湖腾鱼》为中国冰雪文化遗产经典读本。自然地理摄影师边缘2006年10月在中国吉林省拍鸟途中意外获知查干湖采用蒙古族古老的冬季捕鱼方式。十年期间用相机记录冰天雪里地里故事。画册以图文画册的形式，记录了中国蒙古族冬季捕鱼的劳作方式和渔猎文化，图片按照捕鱼的流程进行编辑排列，描述蒙古族渔猎的文化背景以及民间习俗。边缘著，撰文曹保明，摄影边缘，本画册获《美国国家地理》授权，由五洲传播出版社出版。作者边缘，从事新闻编采20多年，历任报纸总编辑部编辑记者，航空杂志总编辑。中国摄影家协会会员、美国摄影家学会会员、英国皇家摄影学会会员。先后荣获中国摄影艺术金像奖、中国国家林业局森林文化奖、WWF世界自然基金会自然奖。作为行走世界的中国著名自然地理摄影师，对图片和文章有着独到的见解。近年来编辑出版自然地理、历史、人文书籍旨在利用媒体传播博大精深的人文历史、倡导保护地球和自然。

边 缘自然地理摄影师;中国摄影家协会会员;美国摄影家学会会员;英国皇家摄影学会会员;荣获中国国家林业局森林文化奖;荣获WWF世界自然基金会自然奖;荣获中国摄影艺术金像奖作品奖。

前 言Preface章 雪野传奇Legends of the Snow Field第二章 心灵祈福Spiritual Blessings第三章 冰原遗产Ice Heritage第四章 冰湖渔猎Fishing on the Ice Lake第五章 岁月传承Passing the Torch第六章 鱼舞盛世A Flourishing Fishing Culture后 记Afterword

永远的查干湖The Eternal Chagan Lake写在《冰湖腾鱼》前边的话An Introduction to Fishing on the Ice撰文 / 高材林By / Gao Cailin在人类的生活中，其实我们每一个人每一天都在寻找，寻找一个越来越感觉 到能吸引你、能留住你的地方，这个地方往往是人真实生活的地方，但又超 越了现实本身。这里往往是生活本身留住了一些生动的东西，或者是山，或 者是水；或者是村落，或者是人家；哪怕仅仅是一座老院落，一座老房子， 一棵老树，那是一些忍不住让人去思考的东西，这里才是作为有生命的人去 苦苦寻觅的地方。In human life, each and every one of us is in search of something, looking for a place that increasingly draws us in and keeps us from leaving. It is often a place where people lead real lives, and yet which transcends reality. It is here that life itself retains something vivid, perhaps mountains and waters, villages and people, or even something as simple as an old courtyard, an old house, an old tree. These are the things that make you think, and such are the places that people who are truly alive strive to find.英国著名文化人类学家查理斯•多尔森（Charles Dorsen）认为，社会不能 不发展，自然不能不变化，而在所有的发展与变化中，那些“留住了传统” 并在进程中能使传统与自然和社会“很好衔接”的地方就是人类进步的典范。 以世界文化学家的理论和结论去权衡，中国吉林省的查干湖冬季渔猎就具有 这样的性质和身份。在这里，它具备了人类所有自然文化与传统文化很好融 合的条件和能力，它完成了这些实践，并很好地保留了传统留给人类的成果。Charles Dorsen, the renowned British cultural anthropologist, argues that society cannot but develop and nature cannot but change. However, amidst all the developments and changes, those places that “retain traditions” and, in the course of progress, are able to link nature and traditions with society, serve as paradigms of human progress. Gauged by this standard, the winter fishing at Chagan Lake in Jilin Province of China can be seen as such a place. It has all the conditions and abilities for the ideal integration of natural culture and traditional culture, and has well preserved the fruits of human traditions.人类的传统，是指人类在生存的语言、行为和心理上的一种综合体现，这种 体现必须是这个地方具有自己久远的历史、清晰的传承、活态的存在和鲜明 的地域特色，查干湖冬捕渔猎就是这样一个典型。在这里，这块土地上的久 远历史都很好地保留在了它的渔猎生活之中，它没有从历史和自然中把自己 剥离出去，而是主动地靠近自然、保护自然，让自己成为自然中的存在，这 在当今社会普遍讲发展而又不知如何递进的进程中非常重要，它以自己的实 践留住了自然，也留住了自己。与别的地域截然不同的是，查干湖的渔猎留 住了属于它自己的完整的渔猎传统。在这里，我们会清晰地看到久远的文化 基因的过渡层次，以人为代表的传承，在人的血缘关系和社会以及职业关系上， 都清清楚楚地体现着，甚至，我们可以倾听到、看得到、触摸到、感受到这 种文化，也可以与之对话，并参与到传承的因素中去。我们真真切切地呼吸 到这块土地上的清新美妙的传统生存气息。在这里，近百岁的渔猎文化传承 者携着他的诸多 80 岁、70 岁、60 岁、50 岁、40 岁以至更年轻的传承者， 都留在这块土地上。这里保留了一种传统文化的前所未有的完整性和清晰性。 走进查干湖，你会发觉自己走进了优秀传统文化的缜密结构之中，这种结构 是永远不会失掉的。Human tradition refers to the comprehensive embodiment of human beings’ language, behavior and psychology for survival. This embodiment requires that a place have a long history of its own, clear inheritance, active existence and distinctive regional characteristics. The winter fishing on Chagan Lake is such an example. Here, the long history of the land is well preserved in its fishing life. It has not torn itself away from history and nature; instead, it has taken the initiative to come close to nature and protect nature, and let itself be an existence in nature, which is all too important in today’s society, where talk of  development is everywhere, with little knowledge of how to manage the process. The people of Chagan Lake have preserved the place and surrounding nature by doing what they do. What makes the place utterly different from other regions is that it has preserved its fishing tradition in its entirety. Here, we can clearly see how the cultural DNA has been passed down through the ages and gone through transitions. The heritage is clearly embodied in blood relations as well as social and occupational relations. What is more, we can even hear, see, touch and feel the culture. We can enter a dialogue with it and become part of the legacy. We breathe the refreshing air of a traditional culture that is well and alive. Here, the hundred-year-old preserver of the fishing culture guides and teaches inheritors who are eighty, seventy, sixty, fifty, forty or even younger, while living together with them on this land–a land that has preserved a traditional culture with unprecedented integrity and clarity. Once you enter the world of Chagan Lake, you will find yourself within the finely meshed structure of a splendid traditional culture that will never be lost.衡量所有优秀文化的标准只有生活本身。在查干湖，我们可以明确地感受到 它与社会、与生活、与自然、与文化、与历史的关系，特别是它与现实社会 的关系，人们在这里才实实在在地感受到查干湖渔猎生活已与今天的社会生 活多么的不可分割，那已形成了一种生活链，它是活着的传统，它是活态的 文化基地，它是现实人们所需要的一种生动的生存方式。同时，人们又清楚 地感受到，这里具有属于自己的鲜明的地域特色，这是使它一跃而成为人类 文化遗产的重要条件和身份。在生活中，其实任何一块土地、一个地域，都 有自己的鲜明特色，但是在认同这个特色、保护这个特色、挖掘这个特色、 传承这个特色上，别的地方很难超越这里。The standard for measuring all good cultures is life itself. At Chagan Lake, we can clearly feel its relationships with society, life, nature, culture and history, especially its relationship with the real world. Here, one truly feels that the Chagan Lake fishing life is inseparable from life in today’s society, with which it has formed a chain of life. It is a living tradition; it is a living cultural base; it is a vivid way of life that people need. At the same time, one will also clearly feel that it has distinct regional characteristics of its own. They constitute the critical conditions and identity which have made the place a cultural heritage site of China. In fact, any piece of land, any region, has its own distinct characteristics. However, in terms of identifying with these characteristics, protecting them, exploring them and passing them down, no place has done better than Chagan Lake.一个地方，它的真实能力不在于如何昭示、宣传，它应该做的恰恰是如何去 认识它自己。一个不能很好认识自己的地域，就没有未来，很真实地认识自己、 思考自己，才能完善自己，才能根据自己的本土存在去认真地审视自己与人 类的自然、历史与文化的关系，也才能找到自己。查干湖的成功是很好 地找到了自己，也就找到了他人。它立足于本土，也才找到了世界，进入到 人类文化的层次。A place’s true value lies not in how it displays or promotes itself, but in how well it knows itself. No place that fails to understand itself has any future. Only by truly understanding itself and reflecting on itself can it improve itself, and, based on its existence on the land, further to examine itself in relation to nature, history and cultures, ultimately discovering its true self. Chagan Nur’s greatest success lies in having found itself, which has allowed it to find others. Only by remaining rooted in its own land has it found the world, and become a shared human cultural heritage.查干湖渔猎文化的所有存在，完完全全地得益于留住了自然的原始背景优势， 并在保护这个重要自然基因的进程中，一刻也未停止地保住更加重要的生存 传统，那就是作为三大人文要素的语言、行为和心理。这种保持和生存，使 得查干湖得天独厚地占据了人类社会向文明发展过渡的前沿高度，它没有让 自己离开人类社会发展的文明前沿，因此它具备了冲向人类文化顶点高度的 能力和品质。The Chagan Lake fishing culture owes its existence entirely to having retained its natural environment, through the process of which the people tirelessly preserved the traditions linked to their survival, namely the three major cultural elements: language, behavior and psychology. This has allowed the culture of Chagan  Lake to remain at the forefront of human society’s development towards civilization, endowing it with the ability to reach the height of human culture.若干年以来，人类社会处于匆忙的转换期与转型期，欧洲的工业革命发展到 工业文明的今天，恰恰与中国的工业化、城镇化异曲同工。在中国社会与人 类文化发展的全球化背景之中，人们在苦苦地寻找失落的曾经创造过人类思 想与文化辉煌的遗产，可是，都不知不觉地被发展的理念轻易地忽视掉了。 查干湖的存在，一下子突显出它的珍贵和重要了，很少有例子在当今可以说 明传统在一个地域和一个民族中的价值意义，查干湖恰恰以自己的真实、朴 实、生动的身份和完整的传统文化结构向人类做出自己的答案，这里才是人 类理想的去处，是人类千百年来苦苦寻觅又接续要去构建的地方，它的存在， 是全人类的一个奇迹。For many years now, human society has been in a fast-paced period of transition and transformation. The progression from the industrial revolution to an industrialized civilization in Europe is mirrored by China’s industrialization and urbanization. Against the cultural background of globalization and the social and human development in China, people are struggling to find what has been lost, the legacy that once created glorious human thoughts and cultures, which, nevertheless, has been unwittingly overlooked and replaced by newly-discovered ideas. Chagan Lake’s existence highlights how precious and significant this legacy is. Today, no other place better exemplifies the importance of tradition to a region and a people than Chagan Lake, and it has done so with an identity that is authentic, down-to- earth and vivid and a traditional cultural structure that remains intact. It is the ideal place to be for humans, one that we have sought long and hard for and will continue to build. Its existence is a miracle for all mankind.如今，全球都在变暖。人类渴望到达一个美妙的冰雪世界，冰雪铸就的庭院 楼阁，处处雪树冰花，仿佛这些只能在安徒生童话和普希金听外婆讲的传说 中才有。其实，查干湖就是这样的一个地方。在这里有白雪铺就的原野，有 冰湖凝成的晶莹的冰原，那些五彩缤纷的冰与雪的文化都是它自己的内涵。 在这里，美丽梦幻的冰雪不再是一个单纯的背景和空间，它有自己的述说， 那一串一串的故事、传说以及传说和故事中的人物，许许多多的冰雪记忆， 都可以活生生地与你对话，这里在亲切地拉着你的手，让你能够融进故事和 传说。梦幻其实已是生活本身。冰雪佳境，晶莹剔透，冰走马轮，霜结人脸， 鱼腾冰湖，汉唐飞天，苍狼踏冰，人畜与共，一处完整的自然与社会完美融合， 被人类很好保留和发展出来的生命生存佳境，奉献给了人类文化遗产宝库。 查干湖，其实是自己保住了自己，自己留住了自己。Today, the world is getting warmer. Humans long for a  wonderful world of ice and snow, where courtyards and pavilions made of ice and snow are everywhere, surrounded by snow trees and ice flowers. It might seem that all these can only exist in Andersen’s fairy tales and the legends that Pushkin’s grandmother told him. In fact, Chagan Lake is just such a place. Here, there are snow-covered wilderness and ice sheets formed by crystalline ice lakes, which are given meaning by the colorful culture of ice and snow. Here, the dreamlike ice-scape is no longer a simple background and space. It has its own narratives. The string of stories, legends, and characters in the legends and stories, and all those memories hidden in the ice and snow, talk to you as if they are alive. This place holds your hand cordially so that you can immerse yourself in the stories and legends. In fact, here life itself is a dream. This wonderful land of ice and snow, of crystalline clearness, of horse- drawn wagons on ice, of frost-covered faces, of fish leaping out of the lake, of the Han and Tang flying Apsaras, of wolves crossing the ice, of men and beasts living side by side — all this shows a perfectly preserved harmony between nature and humans, contributing to the treasure trove of human cultural heritage. In so doing, Chagan Lake has preserved itself, all by itself.高材林 2016 年 10 月Gao Cailin October 2016