描述
开 本: 16开纸 张: 胶版纸包 装: 平装是否套装: 否国际标准书号ISBN: 9787552009712
是否感觉2015版变薄了?为了将重心放在那些真正的好酒以及高质量的酒评之上,为了不浪费读者宝贵的时间,这一版仅保留了2013版中我认为的精华酒款,因此酒评数量的下降是不可避免的,但是酒评整体水准有了质的飞跃。
另外一个重要的变化是目录的强化。许多朋友都和我反映,要从书中找到自己想看的酒非常困难,于是我将2015版的目录做得更加详细,每个产区下都会有子产区的分类。现在,读者要找到自己想了解的酒变得容易许多。打个比方,如果你想找Chateau Palmer,在目录里先找到波尔多,然后在波尔多下面的子产区中找到Margaux地区就行了。同时,2015版中新增索引,对于不习惯使用目录的读者朋友,也可以通过搜索索引的酒庄名找到自己要寻找的酒。
Contents
Red Wine
France
Bordeaux
Medoc
Moulis en Medoc
HautMedoc
SaintEstephe
SaintJulien
Pauillac
Margaux
GravePessacLeognan
SaintGeorgesSaintEmilion
SaintEmilion
Lalande de Pomerol
Pomerol
FrancsCotes de Bordeaux
SudOuest Cotes de Bergerac
Bourgogne
Bourgogne
Bourgogne Irancy
Cote de Nuits Marsannay
Cote de Nuits Fixin
Cote de Nuits GevreyChambertin
Cote de Nuits Morey Saint Denis
Cote de Nuits ChambolleMusigny
Cote de Nuits Vougeot
Cote de Nuits FlageyEchezeaux
Cote de Nuits VosneRomanee
Cote de Nuits NuitsSaintGeorges
Cote de Beaune PernandVergelesses
Cote de Beaune LadoixSerrigny
Cote de Beaune AloxeCorton
Cote de Beaune SavignyLesBeaune
Cote de Beaune Beaune
Cote de Beaune Pommard
Cote de Beaune Volnay
Cote de Beaune Meursault
Cote de Beaune Monthelie
Cote de Beaune AuxeyDuresses
Cote de Beaune Maranges
…………
Im always thinking such a question, again and again, that is ‘what is the relationship between me and wine?’ Rajat Parr, a celebrated Sommelier master has said ‘I cant stop thinking about wines when I wake up every morning.’ Actually, I really understand the status that he has mentioned, which is the same way I do during quite a long period—I dont care about anything but wines. Honestly, Im a very crazy wine lover while not knowing how to express my love and passion. Ipractically take the wines as my lovers, all that Im living for wine, and definitely cant live without wines. While Im nothing to do with the existence of those greatest vineyards and wines! The existence of problem has highly confused me, so that I have to have a second thought on my relationship with wines. Unfortunately, I still cant find the way out till now, I hope I can find the answer in the future with my ageing. However, currently, there is the only thing Im pretty sure—the wine has already become an integral part of my life, flowing in the blood and branded in the deepest of my soul …
葡萄酒和我
我一直在思考一个问题,那就是:“葡萄酒对于我而言究竟意味着什么?”Rajat Parr,这位大师级的侍酒师曾经说过“每天一早醒来后的每一分钟,我都无法停止思考葡萄酒”。我觉得他口中所描述的这种状态和自己每天所经历的情况极为相似,因此便将他的这句名言做了摘录,当作激励自己的座右铭。确实,在很长的一段时间内,除了人类基本的吃喝拉撒外,我仿佛对葡萄酒之外其他的一切事物都没有兴趣,也就是在这种疯狂的状态下,我在不知不觉中写下了这么多的酒评,又在各种机缘巧合下诞生了我的这本作品。我实在太热爱葡萄酒了,爱到无法用言语来表达。我对于葡萄酒的感情更倾向于“爱情”,在世俗的眼中我可能就是一个“酒痴”。我曾经试图将葡萄酒比作我的恋人,然而我发现了这样一个令我哑然失笑的问题:恋人应该是为彼此而存在的,我毫无疑问是为了葡萄酒而生的,没有葡萄酒的话我可能一天都无法在这个世界上活下去;但对葡萄酒而言,有没有我这个人似乎完全没有关系,就像地球少了任何一个人都不会停止运转。即便没有我来到这个世上,那些如同繁星般伟大的葡萄园和葡萄酒依然会历久弥新。所以我必须重新考虑我和葡萄酒之间的关系了。实际上我至今还是无法完全想明白葡萄酒对于我的意义,可能随着年龄的增长,我会有更加深刻的感悟和体会。但是我现在可以明确的一件事,那就是葡萄酒早已成为我生命中不可或缺的一部分了,流淌于血液中,无法割舍,烙印于我的灵魂深处……
The soul in wine
I am always being by others ‘what type of wine can be regarded as great wine?’ To understand easily, I’d like to answer this question with foods, In fact, between wine and food tasting there are many similar features, which can be simply classified into three steps.
Of course, the first step is ‘appearance’. Messy, ugly foods would greatly reduces your appetite, while it does not account for the dominate position during the tasting. Some badlooking foods might taste extremely delicious. As the same, generally speaking, a muddy wine is possibly an extraordinary stuff, need to taste it and then to make the judgment.
Then move to the next step, ‘taste’. It here contains both aroma and palate, which are the results of smell and taste respectively. A significant wine usually possesses amazing complex and variable bouquet, silk like smooth, yet complex and balanced texture along with endless, super long finish. But the most critical is the approve of the taster himself/herself. As we all know, the palate as well as the preference varies from people to people, so you should trust yourself and bravely say ‘no’ to those wines that you really do not like.
Lastly, the most important part for me, is ‘artistic conception’, which is a type of personal feeling, understanding that closely connect with his/her past experience and also still highly based on the second step ‘taste’. If you are drinking a very terrible wine, how can you feel the artistic conception? It is completely impossible, isnt it? On the other side, for a truly great wine, the meaning of ‘artistic conception’ is much more important than ‘taste’, it is a characteristic that a memorably impressive wine must have. In the other words, that is why unique wines can truly move you, touch your soul and even make your cry. Just as the reason as the Adela Adkins does, this celebrated British singer with very ordinary face is able to catch so many peoples heart is because of her easilyrecognized, unique voice, which can deeply touch your soul, to the deepest and yet the softest part of everybodys heart. Very similarly, there are countless mad and fixed fans will pay large amounts of money for those ultraexpressive cult wines, I think is the same reason. And I guess the resource of the soul in wine comes from the incredible passion in winemaking and continually holy loves in their lands/vines/wines from those crazy winemakers. As my perception, during the constantly communication with vines, their passion and purely love in wines has already passed onto their vines/wines.
Terminally, I want to quote the famous words from the madam Leroy—‘If one person loves his/her land, the land will repay that person through the most moving fruits.’ At a silent night, drinking a cup of Leroy and fit with Adeles representative Jazz melody & deep voice—it will be another sleepless night for you.
葡萄酒中的灵魂
经常被人问起“到底什么样的葡萄酒才算是好酒”。关于这个问题我想要拿来和美食一起探讨,因为这样更便于理解。其实我认为品鉴美食和品鉴葡萄酒有着许多相似的地方,无非是三个阶段。首先是“形”,当然指的是外观了,一款看上去乱糟糟、变了形的菜肴会让人的食欲在一定程度上大打折扣。然而在品鉴过程中,这并非是主要的因素。因为一道看上去不美观的菜肴可能在享用时被发现是极其美味的佳肴。葡萄酒也是一样的道理,一杯浑浊的葡萄酒,很多时候可能都暗示着这是一支非凡的出品,需要在品鉴以后才能判断。依次就进入了下一个重要环节——“味”。我所说的“味”包含了香味和口味,即同时通过嗅觉和味觉之后得到的结果。一支伟大的葡萄酒通常有着惊人的复杂多变的香气,绸缎般丝滑同时复杂平衡的口感以及口中仿佛能无限滞留的超长余味。但是为关键的还是品鉴者本人要觉得好喝,众所周知,人的味觉因人而异,每个人的喜好也各不相同,在葡萄酒的世界里怕的就是附庸风雅,人云亦云,所以说无论多牛的酒不喜欢就是不喜欢,就应该大胆的说出来。后的一环“意”在我看来非常的重要,可遇不可求,并非每一支葡萄酒都会拥有。“意”即意境,当然这依然还是基于第二环的“味”之上的,因为意境是一种个人的体会和感受,只可意会不可言传的那种,如果是一支让你觉得难以下咽的酒,你觉得还有没有可能去感受其中所谓的意境呢?话又说回来了,对于一款真正的好酒,“意”的重要性可能要远远超过“味”,是一支能够在你的生命中留下那种永生难忘的,美好回忆的好酒所必须具备的一种特性,换而言之是触动你的灵魂深处的,有着独特意义的酒,深深打动你的酒,甚至能够让你泪流满面的酒。相信许多人一定记得Adela Adkins,那位其貌不扬却成为英国天后级歌手,并且席卷全球,让所有挑剔的评论家们都闭嘴的灵魂歌手,就是用她那独特、并且能直达人的内心深处的音乐征服了那么多听众的心。葡萄酒也是如此,那些贵得简直离谱的膜拜酒每年会有那么多忠实的“粉丝们”大批地去购买,也正是这个原因。而这酒中的灵魂来源,我相信还是出自酿酒师对于自家的田地,葡萄藤以及葡萄酒的疯狂挚爱吧——在漫长的岁月里一如既往的、如同信徒般虔诚地热爱着葡萄酒;在和葡萄藤心心相印的交流过程中,他们对于葡萄酒的热情,可能早就传递给葡萄藤、葡萄酒了。在这里我想引用一下那位著名的Leroy夫人的名言:“假如一个人真挚的热爱着他/她的土地,那葡萄藤将会回报以动人的果实!”夜深人静的夜晚,耳旁响起Adela那标准性的爵士乐旋律和深邃的嗓音,给自己倒上一杯Leroy的酒,相信这又会是一个不眠之夜了……
2014年2月18日
们不断地探索。
其实,为了享用葡萄酒,消费者大可不必花费过多的时间和精力品尝、挑选,酒评家可以帮助我们解决这一难题,他们拥有超凡的品鉴能力和记忆力,经过品评将琳琅满目的各色葡萄酒,归类梳理并形成直观、容易掌握的酒评报告,消费者可以参考他们酒评,来寻找自己喜欢的酒款。
尽管如此,葡萄酒的数量仍然多得超乎想象,品评工作对于酒评家而言也是一种挑战。成功的酒评家往往专注于品评某些固定类别的葡萄酒,因而有经验的消费者会关注自己认可的少数酒评家,而不需要面面俱到。
中国作为一个新兴的葡萄酒消费市场,葡萄酒的推广尚有许多领域需要不断地本地化,并完善之。
期望《沈昊品酒》(2015 版)能帮助读者们更好地享用葡萄酒。
Demei LI
李德美 2014 年中秋于北京
(推荐人担任主要职务中国酒业协会葡萄酒分会副秘书长、中国农学会葡萄分会副秘书长、中国葡萄酒技术委员会委员、中国酒庄联盟副秘书长、中国酿酒标准化委员会葡萄酒分委会委员、国家葡萄酒产品质量认证评委、国家葡萄酒一级品酒师、国家葡萄酒高级酿酒师)
在年轻的时候就知道自己一辈子想要做什么是一件很幸运,也是很幸福的事情。沈昊就属于这样的年轻人。
次见到沈昊是2011年的事了,那时他连20岁都不到,已经是“中国年轻的WSET3级”,常常出现在圈内圈外的品酒会上。在和他的聊天中,清楚的感觉到他对葡萄酒的热情和把品酒当成终生事业的决心。回想我20岁的时候,还是各种迷茫、迷醉,直到过了24岁才学习葡萄酒。因此那时看着年轻的沈昊,我感到又惭愧、又羡慕,惭愧的是我曾经对自己青春的浪费,羡慕的是沈昊在那么年轻的时候就找到了自己的目标。
知道自己的终生目标固然不容易,更难的是,朝着这个目标不停地努力、不同地前进,这其实才是沈昊带给我的*影响。当其他年轻人肆无忌惮的挥洒着青春的时候,沈昊的全部的心思和时间都花在了葡萄酒上。每次在品鉴会看到沈昊,他都会认真地写下每一款葡萄酒的品酒笔记,这种专注在年轻人身上是很难得的。后来沈昊只身去澳大利亚留学,继续追寻葡萄酒的梦想。我们每年只会见一两次,而每次见面,沈昊还是会把每款一起喝的葡萄酒认真记下来。因此看着现在依旧年轻的沈昊,我依旧又惭愧、又羡慕,惭愧的是我现在已经不是每款酒都会写详细的品酒笔记了,羡慕的是沈昊对葡萄酒的热情和专注丝毫不减。
我想这就是《沈昊品酒》(2015版)的意义,它不仅记录了沈昊品评葡萄酒的笔记和感悟,更是一个年轻人对葡萄酒发自内心热爱和沉迷的记录。
我相信这本记录,对沈昊来说,只是个开始而已。
Yang LV
吕 杨
(推荐人为香格里拉酒店集团葡萄酒总监,中国三大侍酒师比赛冠军,大中华地区一位高级侍酒师,并持有WSET4级证书)
Base: 50
Appearance: 3
Nose: 15
Palate: 15
Suitable for drink(balance, complexity, concentration, degree of pleasure): 10
Length: 5
Soul in wine: 1
Organic/Biodynamic: 1
Total: 100
Explanation: This is a global based system. This scoring system is highly based on the current performance and value of wines when I tasted, rather than their aging potential. In concession, the complexity and concentration are general important points in judging the quality of wines, whereas it is not said all very complex and intense wines are equal to greatest ones. On the other side, please do not neglect the one point of ‘soul in wine’, in some cases, this might be can stop some extraordinary stuffs away from the best masterpieces. The organic or biodynamic farm is the currently most popular tendency all over the global wine industry, thus, Ive decided to take this into account. By the way, this one score is only for those true organic/biodynamic producers, regardless of the certifications.
即时适饮评分系统
基础分:50
外观分:3
香气分:15
口感分:15
即时适饮分:(平衡度、复杂度、集中度、愉悦度):10
余韵分:5
葡萄酒中的灵魂分:1
有机栽培/生物动力法分:1
总分:100
阐述:这是一个以全球酒为基本评判标准的评分系统,评分是完全基于我个人品鉴时葡萄酒的表现与价值,而不是通过它们的陈年潜力来打分。诚然,复杂度和集中度在评判葡萄酒优劣时通常都是非常重要的依据,但是这并不代表所有极为复杂并且集中的酒都能够和好的酒画等号。还有,请不要忽略“葡萄酒中的灵魂”的1分,因为在某些情况下,这很有可能正是好酒和好的酒之间不可逾越的鸿沟。有机栽培和生物动力法是当下流行的趋势,因此,我决定将其加入到评判系统之中。在这里我要指出,这一分我只给那些真正的有机栽培/生物动力法的生产商,与是否有官方认证无关。
One Diamond: Excellent优质酒87~88一钻
Description: Unquestionably, it looks less exciting than any others in my system. However, it is necessary to notice that those nice table wines are good for daily drinking or food/wine matching: simple, drinkable and easygoing with foods. P.S. This is not excludes for some celebrated or even cult wines, which were possibly not at their perfection when I tasted.
描述:毫无疑问,这是在评分系统里属于缺乏兴奋点的一档。然而,需要明确的是,这些日常饮用的餐桌酒通常都简单易饮,并且能够和食物进行很好的搭配。特别指出,这其中可能会对一些名酒甚至膜拜酒多有冒犯,也许是在我品鉴的时候由于各种可能存在的原因使其未入佳境。
Two Diamond: Distinguished杰出的酒 89二钻
Description: This two diamond level I set up here is for those really controversial ones—of course, I cant say my palate can represent for the publics, and in some cases, I maybe have made some mistakes. Nevertheless, in most situations, I still insist they are somewhat away from those really outstanding wines.
描述:我之所以设置两钻主要还是为了那些充满争议的酒款——当然了,我肯定不能说我的味觉能够代表所有人的味蕾,并且不可避免在某些时刻我可能会犯错,比如错误判断了一些酒。即便如此,在大部分情况下,我依然坚信两钻的这些酒比起那些酒还是有一定差距的。
Three Diamond: Outstanding酒90~92三钻
Description: As the word surface meaning, definitely the remarkable wines. Although those stuffs do not showed the grandness, but I think its already very enough for fine wine lovers.
描述:如同字面意思一样,是无可争议的卓越酒款。经管这些还不能算伟大的葡萄酒,但我认为对于那些喜欢喝精品好酒的爱好者而言这已经算很够格的了。
Four Diamond: Exceptional超的膜拜酒93~94四钻
Description: Same to the five diamond, those dreamy stuffs might sometimes includes my respect come from inside to the craftsmen or the ‘terroir’ of the vineyard sites. Only thing I have to mention here is that—as my perception, they are already the greatest wines, while just a little bit away from the ‘top mountain’!
描述:和五钻相同,这些梦幻的酒款可能包含了我对于缔造者或者是葡萄园的“风土”发自内心的尊敬。我想要说明的是,就我个人而言,这些都已经是非常了不起的葡萄酒了,但可惜的是离“山顶的峰”可能还有一步之遥。
Five Diamond: Impressive终身难忘的酒95~100五钻
Description: In general, its always those very rare, respectful and yet unforgettable bottles. It is also absolutely best of the best for me, so if possible, I hope to drink those forever loves till the end of the world…
描述:通常而言,这些酒大多都属于已经被摆上神坛的稀世佳酿,并且毋庸置疑是使人终生难忘的酒。对于我来说,这已经是好到极致的酒了,如果有可能的话,我希望能一直饮用这些我的爱,直到世界的尽头……
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